Wow was a great day! I love to help my clients reach their goals. Another successful closing.  As a full time marketing specialist, pricing analyst and realtor this is what it is all about. Helping clients reach goals 1 house at a time.  If you are looking to sell or buy  Call today.  I work with buyers and sellers in the columbus and surrounding areas in Ohio.

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By: Joseph D’Agnese     Published: February 26, 2010

To choose the best exterior paint or stain for your job, match the coating to your house, your climate, and the look you want

Latex paint cleans up easily with water and can be used on wood, stucco, and vinyl siding. Image: Behr Paints

At a cost of $4,000 to $6,000 or more for a professional house painting, you want to get the most from your investment. Done right, an exterior paint job can last 10 years; stain needs to be reapplied more often, anywhere from two to 10 years, depending on the type of stain.

One key to how long an exterior finish lasts is how well the surface is prepared. But equally important is the choice of the paint or stain itself. Using high-quality materials, matching them to your house and climate, and conducting regular maintenance will extend the time between recoatings.

Expect to pay $35 to $45 per gallon for conventional premium paint or stain. œGreen, or zero-VOC, products run $45 to $55 per gallon. A gallon covers 350 to 400 square feet, so figure on about 8 gallons to cover an average two-story, 30-by-40-foot house. Most paint jobs require a primer and two topcoats.

Acrylic latex paints

Acrylic latex is the favored choice, both of pros and do-it-yourselfers. These water-based paints come in an endless range of colors and three popular finishes. Flat paint, commonly used indoors, offers the least protection against the elements. Satin, with its slightly higher sheen, is a good choice for wood siding. Semi-gloss or gloss offers the most protection and works well on high-use areas like window and door trim.

Pros: Latex paints are easy to work with and clean up with water. The paint film remains flexible even after drying, so it breathes and moves slightly to accommodate changes in temperature, or even house settling, without cracking. In addition to wood, latex can also cover siding made of vinyl, aluminum, fiber cement, stucco, brick, and metal.

Cons: Unless you™re using œgreen products, expect to smell paint fumes from the moment you open the can until the paint dries completely. These odors, produced by volatile organic compounds, are toxic in high quantities and contribute to air pollution.

In general, latex paint doesn™t bond well to previous coats of oil paint unless you prepare the surface very well. That means stripping nearly all the old paint off the wood first, a time-consuming and expensive job. It™s often smarter to stick with oil if you™ve got oil, and latex if you™ve got latex.

Costs: $35 to $45 a gallon for premium latex paint; $45 to $55 a gallon for premium low- or zero-VOC paints.

Oil-based paints

Oil paint, long prized for its durability, used to be the gold standard for exteriors and some high-traffic house trim such as handrails, doors, and floors. But these days it plays second fiddle to latex.

Pros: Oil paints dry hard and get harder with time. That makes them perfect for high-traffic uses: porch floors, steps, metal handrails, even your front door.

Cons: Over time, oil paint can become brittle and crack, producing an œalligator look. (Some people actually like the effect.) Oil paint can never be applied on top of old latex paint; the two won™t bond properly.

Toxic solvents are required to clean brushes and other equipment that come in contact with oil paint. The average can of oil paint has more VOCs than a can of conventional latex paint. Low-VOC oil paint is available, but even these products contain more VOCs than low-VOC latex paint.

Costs: $35 to $45 a gallon for premium oil-based paint; $45 to $55 a gallon for premium low-VOC paints.

Exterior stain

Stain is the choice when you want to let some of the natural features of the wood shine through but still shield your investment from the elements. Cedar, redwood, and other beautiful varieties cry out for stain. As a rule, stain isn™t as protective as paint; sunlight and weather can still penetrate the stain, causing the wood to age and discolor.

Like paints, stains come in latex and oil-based versions. You don™t want to cover an oil with a latex stain, or vice versa, unless the old coat of stain has aged and weathered to the point where the new coat can adhere.

Stains come in three finishes:

• Clear stains are extremely translucent. You™ll see more of the wood, but you™ll need to reapply as often as every two to three years. Clear stains can still vary greatly in appearance, so you will want to experiment on a scrap piece of shingle to choose your favorite product. Over time, the wood under clear stain will continue to discolor, forcing you to eventually move to the next category.

• Semi-transparent stains are bulkier and offer more protection than clear stains, because they contain a hint of pigment. Color choices are not nearly as numerous as those for latex paint, but there™s still a broad range of options. Reapply in five to seven years.

• Opaque stains behave more like paint; they offer maximum protection and hide much of the wood™s look. But they still allow the texture to show through. These come in many colors, but choose carefully”if you want to change colors next time around, you™ll need to sand the surface completely. Opaques last 10 years or more.

Pros: Stains don™t require extensive surface prep the way paint does. Just wash, dry, scrape any raised or cracked stain, and re-stain with a brush. You don™t need a primer and may be able to squeak by with one coat.

Cons: Depending on type of stain, requires frequent reapplication.

Costs: $35 to $45 a gallon.

It™s worth springing for the good stuff

To make sure you™re purchasing a quality product, buy at a reputable paint store and ask sales clerks for recommendations. When buying latex paints, choose ones that are 100% acrylic polymers or resins, labeled on the front or in the ingredients list. Low-quality paint feels thin, runs down surfaces, and spatters off rollers. High-quality paint feels thicker, levels well when applied, and hides the old paint layer or primer in one to two coats, tops.

When it comes to stain, brand name and reputation are the best indicators of quality. Ask for recommendations, accept the higher price, and don™t try to cut corners.

By: John Riha   Published: August 31, 2009

Cleaning and repairing your home™s siding once every year will pay off in the form of a long life and increased value for your home.

Power washing a house is tricky. If done incorrectly, the water can strip paint, gouge wood, and cause other damage. Image: iStockphoto/Briss

If you™d like to prevent costly home repairs and add to the value of your house, clean your siding. With proper care and a little regular maintenance, your home™s exterior could be trouble-free for 50 years and more. Cleaning siding removes dirt and mildew that may shorten the life of your siding. A clean house protects your investment, too. œA good first appearance on a home can add as much as 5% to 10% to the value of the home, says John Aust, a past president of the National Association of Real Estate Appraisers.

Cleaning wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, fiber-cement siding

All types of siding benefit from a good cleaning once every year to remove grit, grime, and mildew. The best way”whether you have wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, or fiber-cement”is with a bucket of warm, soapy water (1/2 cup trisodium phosphate”TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers”dissolved in 1 gallon of water) and a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each from top to bottom, and rinse. For two-story homes, you™ll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.

Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. If you don™t have the time”or the inclination”you can have your house professionally cleaned for $300-$500. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.

You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $75 per day, but beware if you don™t have experience with the tool. Power washers force water through a nozzle at high pressure, resulting in water blasts that can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, resulting in moisture accumulating behind the siding. A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.  

Inspect for damage

Right before you clean is the ideal time to inspect your house for signs of damage or wear and tear. A house exterior is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. For all types of siding, look for caulk that has cracked due to age or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F for maximum adhesion.

Other defects include wood siding with chipped or peeling paint, and cracked boards and trim. If you have a stucco exterior, be on the lookout for cracks and chips. For brick, look for crumbling mortar joints. Repair defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.

Repair wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding  

Damage to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement horizontal lap siding often occurs because of everyday accidents”being struck by sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects like baseballs. Repairing horizontal lap siding requires the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels or pieces of wood clapboard.

Repaint wood, fiber-cement  

Houses with wood siding should be repainted every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A professional crew will paint a two-story, 2,300 square foot house for $3,000-$5,000. If you™ve cleaned your house exterior yourself, you™ve done much of the prep work and will save the added cost that a painting contractor would charge to clean the siding before painting.

Fiber-cement siding, whether it comes with a factory-applied color finish or is conventionally painted, requires repainting far less often (every 8-10 years) than wood siding. That™s because fiber-cement is dimensionally stable and, unlike wood, doesn™t expand and contract with changes in humidity.  

It™s a good idea to specify top-quality paint. Because only 15% to 20% of the total cost of repainting your house is for materials, using a top-quality paint will add only a nominal amount”about $200”to the job. However, the best paints will outperform œordinary paints by several years, saving you money.

Repair brick mortar, stop efflorescence

Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar”a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $5-$20 per square foot.

Efflorescence”the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces”is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout was never sealed correctly. Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.

Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.

Remove mildew from all types of siding

Stubborn black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach”if the black disappears, it™s mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.  

Repair cracked stucco

Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.

Take time to inspect and clean your house siding, and you™ll be rewarded with a trouble-free exterior.  

By: John Riha   Published: August 31, 2009

Cleaning and repairing your home™s siding once every year will pay off in the form of a long life and increased value for your home.

Power washing a house is tricky. If done incorrectly, the water can strip paint, gouge wood, and cause other damage. Image: iStockphoto/Briss

If you™d like to prevent costly home repairs and add to the value of your house, clean your siding. With proper care and a little regular maintenance, your home™s exterior could be trouble-free for 50 years and more. Cleaning siding removes dirt and mildew that may shorten the life of your siding. A clean house protects your investment, too. œA good first appearance on a home can add as much as 5% to 10% to the value of the home, says John Aust, a past president of the National Association of Real Estate Appraisers.

Cleaning wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, fiber-cement siding

All types of siding benefit from a good cleaning once every year to remove grit, grime, and mildew. The best way”whether you have wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, or fiber-cement”is with a bucket of warm, soapy water (1/2 cup trisodium phosphate”TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers”dissolved in 1 gallon of water) and a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each from top to bottom, and rinse. For two-story homes, you™ll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.

Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. If you don™t have the time”or the inclination”you can have your house professionally cleaned for $300-$500. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.

You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $75 per day, but beware if you don™t have experience with the tool. Power washers force water through a nozzle at high pressure, resulting in water blasts that can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, resulting in moisture accumulating behind the siding. A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.  

Inspect for damage

Right before you clean is the ideal time to inspect your house for signs of damage or wear and tear. A house exterior is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. For all types of siding, look for caulk that has cracked due to age or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F for maximum adhesion.

Other defects include wood siding with chipped or peeling paint, and cracked boards and trim. If you have a stucco exterior, be on the lookout for cracks and chips. For brick, look for crumbling mortar joints. Repair defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.

Repair wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding  

Damage to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement horizontal lap siding often occurs because of everyday accidents”being struck by sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects like baseballs. Repairing horizontal lap siding requires the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels or pieces of wood clapboard.

Repaint wood, fiber-cement  

Houses with wood siding should be repainted every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A professional crew will paint a two-story, 2,300 square foot house for $3,000-$5,000. If you™ve cleaned your house exterior yourself, you™ve done much of the prep work and will save the added cost that a painting contractor would charge to clean the siding before painting.

Fiber-cement siding, whether it comes with a factory-applied color finish or is conventionally painted, requires repainting far less often (every 8-10 years) than wood siding. That™s because fiber-cement is dimensionally stable and, unlike wood, doesn™t expand and contract with changes in humidity.  

It™s a good idea to specify top-quality paint. Because only 15% to 20% of the total cost of repainting your house is for materials, using a top-quality paint will add only a nominal amount”about $200”to the job. However, the best paints will outperform œordinary paints by several years, saving you money.

Repair brick mortar, stop efflorescence

Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar”a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $5-$20 per square foot.

Efflorescence”the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces”is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout was never sealed correctly. Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.

Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.

Remove mildew from all types of siding

Stubborn black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach”if the black disappears, it™s mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.  

Repair cracked stucco

Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.

Take time to inspect and clean your house siding, and you™ll be rewarded with a trouble-free exterior.  

By: John Riha   Published: August 31, 2009

Cleaning and repairing your home™s siding once every year will pay off in the form of a long life and increased value for your home.

Power washing a house is tricky. If done incorrectly, the water can strip paint, gouge wood, and cause other damage. Image: iStockphoto/Briss

If you™d like to prevent costly home repairs and add to the value of your house, clean your siding. With proper care and a little regular maintenance, your home™s exterior could be trouble-free for 50 years and more. Cleaning siding removes dirt and mildew that may shorten the life of your siding. A clean house protects your investment, too. œA good first appearance on a home can add as much as 5% to 10% to the value of the home, says John Aust, a past president of the National Association of Real Estate Appraisers.

Cleaning wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, fiber-cement siding

All types of siding benefit from a good cleaning once every year to remove grit, grime, and mildew. The best way”whether you have wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, or fiber-cement”is with a bucket of warm, soapy water (1/2 cup trisodium phosphate”TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers”dissolved in 1 gallon of water) and a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each from top to bottom, and rinse. For two-story homes, you™ll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.

Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. If you don™t have the time”or the inclination”you can have your house professionally cleaned for $300-$500. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.

You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $75 per day, but beware if you don™t have experience with the tool. Power washers force water through a nozzle at high pressure, resulting in water blasts that can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, resulting in moisture accumulating behind the siding. A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.  

Inspect for damage

Right before you clean is the ideal time to inspect your house for signs of damage or wear and tear. A house exterior is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. For all types of siding, look for caulk that has cracked due to age or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F for maximum adhesion.

Other defects include wood siding with chipped or peeling paint, and cracked boards and trim. If you have a stucco exterior, be on the lookout for cracks and chips. For brick, look for crumbling mortar joints. Repair defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.

Repair wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding  

Damage to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement horizontal lap siding often occurs because of everyday accidents”being struck by sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects like baseballs. Repairing horizontal lap siding requires the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels or pieces of wood clapboard.

Repaint wood, fiber-cement  

Houses with wood siding should be repainted every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A professional crew will paint a two-story, 2,300 square foot house for $3,000-$5,000. If you™ve cleaned your house exterior yourself, you™ve done much of the prep work and will save the added cost that a painting contractor would charge to clean the siding before painting.

Fiber-cement siding, whether it comes with a factory-applied color finish or is conventionally painted, requires repainting far less often (every 8-10 years) than wood siding. That™s because fiber-cement is dimensionally stable and, unlike wood, doesn™t expand and contract with changes in humidity.  

It™s a good idea to specify top-quality paint. Because only 15% to 20% of the total cost of repainting your house is for materials, using a top-quality paint will add only a nominal amount”about $200”to the job. However, the best paints will outperform œordinary paints by several years, saving you money.

Repair brick mortar, stop efflorescence

Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar”a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $5-$20 per square foot.

Efflorescence”the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces”is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout was never sealed correctly. Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.

Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.

Remove mildew from all types of siding

Stubborn black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach”if the black disappears, it™s mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.  

Repair cracked stucco

Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.

Take time to inspect and clean your house siding, and you™ll be rewarded with a trouble-free exterior.  

By: Douglas Trattner

Published: May 12, 2010

Specialty appliances for outdoor kitchens are hot items, but you™ll spend thousands of dollars for the added convenience.

Outdoor pizza ovens, which are gaining in popularity, typically cost between $700 and $6,000. Image: Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet

œThere is a trend away from simple barbecue islands and to elaborate outdoor kitchens, explains Mitch Slater, president of Danver, a manufacturer of outdoor kitchen cabinetry. œHomeowners want to be able to do outdoors all the food preparation that they normally have to do indoors. For that reason, appliances like ice makers, pizza ovens, and beer fridges are all finding their way to the backyard. However, you should carefully consider your needs and lifestyle to ensure that you™ll get your money™s worth of use and convenience from specialty appliances that may cost thousands of dollars.

Note that with outdoor appliances, you will likely encounter the following additional costs for installation:

• $125 to $300 to add an outdoor electrical outlet.

• $400 to $800 to run a cold water supply line, or a combination hot-and-cold water supply.

• $1,500 to $3,000 to install hot-and-cold water supply lines plus a drain system.

Ice makers

Cost range: $180-$2,000
Likely additional costs: 110 outlet, water line hook-up, cover
Average life span: 3-10 years

With a built-in ice maker, there will be no more trips to the corner store for 25-pound bags of ice. These sleek, stainless steel-clad units blend seamlessly with outdoor kitchen cabinetry and produce about 25 pounds of ice per day.

Because these models get tied into the home™s water line, they require a plumber for installation. They also require an electrical outlet. Expect to pay $900 to $2,000 for an outdoor-approved appliance with a warranty that covers parts and labor for one year and the compressor for five. Homeowners in cold climes must shut off the water supply and drain the lines before winter to prevent the freezing and bursting of pipes.

Portable or countertop ice makers are less expensive”ranging from $180 to $300”and don™t require a connection to a water line. An interior reservoir is filled with tap or bottled water, allowing the units to produce about 35 cubes per hour. Refilling the tank may be necessary for large amounts of ice, and the appliance requires an electrical outlet.

Because most less-expensive machines are not UL rated for outdoor use, they should not be left out in the weather. Expect shorter warranties (90-day to one year) as well.

Pizza ovens

Cost range: $700-$6,000 and up
Likely additional costs: gas line hook-up, sturdy base, firewood
Average life span: 5-20 years

œGas or wood-fired pizza ovens are getting very popular, explains Danver™s Mitch Slater. Attracted by the romance of a Tuscan-style pizza-making experience, more and more homeowners are installing these hefty gourmet appliances. Constructed of masonry or thick steel, these units all feature a stone hearth floor and gently sloping domed roof.

Wood-fired stoves, the purist™s choice, come in two basic models: those heated from a fire built inside the firebox and those heated from a separate firebox below the oven. Both require a sizeable time commitment to reach desired temps, not to mention a steady supply of hardwood. A word of caution, notes Slater: œThese units are heavy, 500 pounds or more, and require a sturdy base that can be very expensive to build.

Countertop pizza ovens are fueled by propane or a home™s natural gas supply and can reach cooking temps in as little as 30 minutes. Prices range from $700 for a freestanding wood-fired oven to $6,000 for elaborate wood- or gas-fired units. Expect warranties ranging from five years to limited lifetime.

Beer dispenser

Cost range: $400 to $1,500
Likely additional costs: 110 outlet, CO2, cover
Average life span: 5-10 years

For serious entertainers, there may be no greater luxury than an endless supply of ice-cold draft beer. Often referred to as kegerators, beer dispensers simultaneously chill and dispense beer from a keg.

Though models are available for as little as $400, the less-costly versions typically are not designed for outdoor use and must be protected from the weather. Expect to pay between $900 and $1,500 for an outdoor-approved model with a warranty that covers parts and labor for one year and the compressor for five.

Before investing in one of these appliances, it™s wise to know that kegs are heavy and not readily available in all areas. A full-size keg holds approximately 160 pints of beer, or roughly seven cases. And once the keg is tapped, the beer will remain fresh only for about three weeks under consistent refrigeration.

In addition to an electrical source, kegerators also require a CO2 supply. Each five-pound cylinder of gas will dispense about six kegs of beer before it needs refilling from a local gas supplier ($10).

Patio heaters

Cost range: $150-$800
Likely additional costs: 110 outlet, natural gas hook-up or propane tank, cover for freestanding units
Average life span: 5-10 years

Patio heaters don™t cook the food or chill the beer, but they do increase the amount of time a family gets to enjoy the outdoors. There are three main categories of outdoor heaters, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. None, however, will transform an arctic evening into a tropical oasis: most work best when the thermometer reads between 50 and 60 degrees. Patio heaters add approximately 10 degrees to the ambient outdoor temperature.

Tabletop models stand just 3 feet tall, making them easy to move from site to site. Putting out about 10,000 BTUs, these units heat a 10-foot-diameter circle, or about 80 square feet. They will run approximately two hours on a one-pound propane tank. At about $5 per tank, the operating cost is $2.50 per hour. Prices for tabletop propane heaters range from $150 to $250, including a one-year manufacturer™s warranty.

Freestanding”or post-style”heaters stand about 8 feet tall and heat an area more than four times the size of tabletop varieties. Producing over 40,000 BTUs, these models warm a 20-foot-diameter circle, or 314 square feet.

Fuel choices for post-style heaters include propane or natural gas. Using natural gas eliminates the need to refill propane tanks and costs less than half to run, but requires a gas line hook-up and a stationary location. Post-style heaters range from $200 to $500 and come with a one-year manufacturer™s warranty.

Electric heaters simply plug into a standard outlet, making them the greenest and cheapest options when it comes to operating costs. Powerful bulbs emit steady infrared heat that is unaffected by wind like models that utilize flames.

Units costing $300 will heat 75 to 100 square feet and cost as little as $0.15 per hour to run. Models that heat 300 square feet cost upwards of $800 and consume about three times the energy.

Some electric heaters are rated for outdoor use and may be exposed to the elements, as long as the outlet itself is weatherproof. Some electric heating units are designated for outside use but must be covered, meaning they can be used only under a roof structure, awning, or eave, limiting their applications. Also, heating elements last only two to four years depending on use and cost $100 to replace. One-year manufacturer™s warranties are standard.

By: Douglas Trattner

Keep your clothes washer and dryer running efficiently and reliably with this simple maintenance routine.

You should inspect your washer and dryer monthly to make sure all fittings are still tight. Image: Alex Wilson/Digital Vision/Getty Images

Anything that affects a dryer™s airflow can cause the appliance to fail and possibly create a dangerous fire hazard, warns Doug Rogers, president of the Mr. Appliance repair chain. And when it comes to washing machines, the leading cause of costly home damage is hose failure.

Here™s a list of maintenance tips to keep your washer and dryer running smoothly and safely:

• Replace vinyl dryer exhaust ducts with metal ductwork to reduce fire hazards.

• Before every dryer load, clean out the lint filter.

• Every three months, wash the lint filter with detergent to remove invisible chemical residues that can restrict airflow.

• Every month, visually inspect the dryer exhaust duct for crimps, obstructions, and unnecessary bends.

• Yearly, remove and clean out the entire exhaust duct line from dryer to exterior.

• Replace rubber washing machine hoses with braided-metal ones to reduce the risk of bursting. Expect to pay about $8 per hose.

• Monthly, inspect washing machine hoses for tight fittings, bulges, cracks, and leaks. Tighten loose fittings. Replace damaged hoses.

• Always ensure that the washing machine is level and on firm footing.

• Always use the proper type and amount of detergent for the machine and load.

• To prevent washing machine odor in front-load machines, always allow the interior to dry before shutting the door. Families with small children, however, should not leave the door ajar. Instead, use products specifically intended to eliminate odor-causing residues

By: Oliver Marks

Protect yourself against unscrupulous contractors by learning about the warning signs of these common home-improvement scams.

If a contractor tells you he doesn’t need a permit, that’s a red flag. Permits are required for all significant construction jobs. Image: PhotoAlto/Eric Audras/Getty Images

Crooks go where the money is. So with Americans spending as much as $22 billion a year on construction projects, it™s no surprise that home improvement has become a favorite target for fraud artists. Some of these shady characters use amazingly well-polished hoaxes that are tricky to spot until it™s too late.

The vast majority of contractors are honest, hardworking professionals. Protecting yourself against the few bad apples requires checking references, having a solid contract, and being alert to the warning signs of these top five contractor scams.

Scam 1: I need the money up front

This is the most common ruse reported to the Better Business Bureau, says Erin Dufner, vice president of the organization™s Austin, Texas, office. Your contractor explains that because he has to order materials and rent earthmoving equipment to get the job started, he needs, say, 30% to 50% of the project price up front. Once you™ve forked over the dough, one of two things happens: He disappears on you, or he starts doing slapdash work knowing that you can™t really fire him because he™s sitting on thousands of your dollars.

How to protect yourself: Never prepay more than $1,000 or 10% of the job total, whichever is less. That™s the legal maximum in some states, and enough to establish that you™re a serious customer so the contractor can work you into his schedule”the only valid purpose of an advance payment. As to the materials and backhoe rentals, if he™s a professional in good standing, his suppliers will provide them on credit.

Scam 2: Take my word for it

When you first meet with the contractor, he™s very agreeable about doing everything exactly to your specifications and even suggests his own extra touches and upgrades. Some of the details don™t make it into the contract, but you figure it doesn™t matter because you had such a clear verbal understanding. Pretty soon, though, you notice that the extras you™d discussed aren™t being built. When you confront the contractor, he tells you that he didn™t include those features in his price, so you™ll have to live without them or pony up additional money to redo the work.

How to protect yourself: Unfortunately, you have no legal recourse because you signed a contract that didn™t include all the details. Next time, make sure everything you™ve agreed on is written into the project description. Add any items that are missing, put your initials next to each addition, and have the contractor initial it, too”all before you sign.

Scam 3: I don™t need to pull a permit

You™re legally required to get a building permit for any significant construction project. That allows building officials to visit the site periodically to confirm that the work meets safety codes. On small interior jobs, an unlicensed contractor may try to skirt the rule by telling you that authorities won™t notice. On large jobs that can™t be hidden, the contractor may try another strategy and ask you to apply for a homeowner™s permit, an option available to do-it-yourselfers.

But taking out your own permit for a contractor job means lying to authorities about who™s doing the work. And it makes you responsible for monitoring all the inspections, explaining to the contractor what changes the inspector wants, and getting him to make them”since the contractor doesn™t answer to the inspector, you do.

How to protect yourself: Always demand that the contractor get a building permit. Yes, it informs the local tax assessor about your upgrade, but it weeds out unlicensed contractors and gives you the added protection of an independent assessment of the work, says Tampa, Florida, attorney George Meyer, chair-elect of the American Bar Association™s Forum on the Construction Industry.

Scam 4: We ran into unforeseen problems

The job is already under way, perhaps even complete, when this one hits. Suddenly your contractor informs you that the agreed-upon price has skyrocketed. He blames the discovery of structural problems, like a missing beam or termite damage, or design changes that you made after the job began.

The additional fees might very well be legit, but some unscrupulous contractors bid jobs low to get the work and then find excuses to jack up the price later. If you™re unsure whether your contractor is telling the truth about structural problems, you can get an impartial opinion from a home inspector, the local branch of the National Association of Home Builders, or even your local building department.

How to protect yourself: Before signing the contract, make sure it includes a procedure for change orders, which are mini-contracts containing a work description and a fixed price, for anything that gets added to the job in progress. The extra work, whether it™s related to unforeseen building issues or homeowner whims, can proceed only after the change order is signed by both homeowner and contractor.

Scam 5: I™ve got extra materials I can sell you cheap

This hoax is usually run by driveway paving companies, whose materials”hot-top asphalt and concrete”can™t be returned to the supplier. So the crew pulls up to your house with a load of leftover product and quotes a great price to resurface your driveway on the spot. Even assuming they really are giving you a bargain (by no means a sure thing), taking them up on the offer is risky. You have no idea who they are or whether they™ll do the job right. And if the driveway starts cracking next year, you can be sure that you won™t be able to find this bunch again.

How to protect yourself: Never hire a contractor on the spot, whether it™s a driveway paver, an emergency repairman who shows up after a major storm, or a landscaper with surplus plantings. Take your time to check contractors out to make sure they have a good reputation and do quality work.

All of these situations can be difficult to resolve once you™re a victim. But a little up-front effort now can keep you from throwing good money after bad later on.

By: Oliver Marks

If you™re deciding whether to repair or replace central air conditioning equipment, assess the quality of your house™s ductwork and insulation first.    

 If you decide to purchase a new air conditioner, make sure you get a load calculation to determine the right size. Image: Lennox Home Comfort Systems

So much has changed in the world of air conditioning in recent years that if your system has almost any significant breakdown”or if it™s just not keeping you as cool as it used to”it may be worth replacing it instead of repairing it. As of 2010, for example, manufacturers must use a new kind of refrigerant that™s not an ozone-depleting chlorofluorocarbon. And a new system can use less than half the electricity of your old one while doing a far better job of keeping you cool and comfortable.

If your air conditioner is more than eight years old, repair is probably not worth the expense, unless it™s a simple problem like debris clogging the condenser unit or a worn fan belt. Still, to best weigh your repair-or-replace decision, ask your contractor to assess not just the condition of your existing equipment, but also the ducts that deliver the cool air and the overall quality of the insulation in your house. Improving those elements might increase the effectiveness of the system as much or more than installing new machinery.

Assess the efficiency of your current system

Even if your central air conditioner is just eight to 10 years old, it could suck up to twice the electricity that even a low-end new one would use. That™s because it operates at or below 10 SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is the amount of energy needed to provide a specific cooling output. Until 2006, 10 SEER was standard, but these days, the minimum allowed by federal law is 13 SEER. That translates to 30% less electrical consumption and 30% lower cooling bills than equipment installed just a few years ago.

For an 1,800 square foot house, a new 13 SEER unit will cost $3,000 to $4,000. You can double your energy savings by jumping up to 16 SEER, which will reduce cooling expenses by 60% over a 10 SEER unit. At $5,000 to $6,000, these super-efficient units are more expensive, but they qualify for a 30% federal tax credit of up to $1,500 and possibly local incentives, too. So the added cost might be negligible.

œYour installer can run the numbers for you to see whether it™s worth the additional cost, says Ellis Guiles of TAG Mechanical in Syracuse, New York. œIf you™re south of the Mason Dixon line, certainly, you can make up those dollars pretty quickly.

Inspect the condition of the ductwork

You could upgrade to the highest efficiency gear available and still not feel comfortably cool on hot days. That™s because the mechanicals are only part of the central air system. The average house™s ductwork leaks 10% to 30% of its air before it can reach your living space, according to Pacific Gas & Electric. Before deciding whether to repair or replace your condenser and blower units, your technician should run a duct-leakage test, by sealing the vents and measuring how much air escapes the system.

If the ducts are inefficient, he can locate and seal the gaps, typically for $25 to $35 per vent (per œrun in industry jargon), or replace the ductwork entirely with new, insulated pipe for around $100 per run, according to Guiles. Your technician may recommend doing the duct improvements in conjunction with replacement of the mechanicals or may recommend only one or the other job.

Consider the building envelope itself

If your house is poorly insulated, it™s putting a strain on your aging air conditioner. Resolving the house™s flaws may mean that your old system will have enough cooling power to continue to do the job for a few more years. Or it may enable you to buy a smaller replacement system, lowering your upfront and ongoing energy costs significantly.

Your heating and cooling contractor should assess and, if necessary, upgrade the building envelope. For example, he might seal gaps and cracks in the outer walls and attic floor, or he might blow insulation into the walls, either of which could knock as much as 30% off your heating and cooling costs. This work too may be eligible for federal and local tax credits”and in some cases, it may be a more effective solution to your cooling problems than replacing your equipment.

Make sure a new system is sized right

If you decide to replace, make sure the contractor™s bid includes a load calculation, which is a computer printout showing how big a system you need and why.

Air conditioning is measured by the ton, which is the cooling power of a one-ton block of ice melting in 24 hours. Some old-school installers use a ballpark estimate for sizing equipment”say, one ton for every 400 or 600 square feet of living space. But that typically leads to systems that are too big, according to Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, Calif. Not only do oversized systems cost more, but they also do their cooling work too quickly, which means more frequent on/off cycles, wearing out components and gobbling electricity. Plus, they don™t have a chance to effectively dehumidify the air.

Good contractors use load-calculating software that factors in such data as the number of windows in your house, the thickness of insulation, the configuration of the attic, and the building™s orientation to the sun. It produces not only an exact tonnage requirement, but determines how much cool air each room needs.

By: G. M. Filisko

Creating a newsletter with all the neighborhood news informs homeowners and nudges them to become part of the family.  

If your neighbors are willing to share their email addresses, circulating an electronic newsletter is cheaper than printing copies. Image: Ryan McVay/Photodisc/Getty Images

Peek behind the curtains at strong, connected condominium and homeowners associations, and you™ll find leaders who believe in frequent and open communication. A longstanding”and effective”means to that end is an association newsletter.

A condo/HOA newsletter is a simple tool for circulating critical association information and building bridges between neighbors that will strengthen the whole association. The more informed owners are about your community and the more connected they feel to fellow residents, the more likely they™ll participate in a positive way. That improves all owners™ property values, according to studies by Dennis P. Rosenbaum, director of the Center for Research in Law and Justice at the University of Illinois at Chicago.

Other great options for community communication include listservs and websites.

If you™re ready to become your association™s resident scrivener, consider whether you™ll publish your newsletter on paper or online. Attaching a document to a standard email costs nothing. Signing up for an email newsletter service starts at about $15/month with services like AWeber or ConstantContact. For both options, however, you™ll need homeowners to share their personal email addresses, which some may resist.

When residents are unwilling to share email information, a paper newsletter will better achieve your communications goals. œIt costs about $60 per year for the ink and paper for all of our newsletters, says Keely Killpack, board chair of the Gentry Place Homeowners Association in Beaverton, Ore., which publishes three to four times annually. œWe have 32 homes, so it™s about $2 per house annually from dues.

You can accept advertising to offset the costs, but there are pitfalls. œMake sure it™s appropriate, advises Duane McPherson, division president at RealManage, an association management firm in San Rafael, Calif. œThere are adult-oriented businesses you wouldn™t want to promote in a family-friendly newsletter.

Even if you opt for an online format, scatter hard copies throughout your common areas. œWe™ve taken to posting it by our elevators and highlighting important items, says Sue Walton, who serves on her 40-unit condo association™s communications committee in Evanston, Ill. Also send copies via snail mail to owners who request it.

What to put in a community newsletter

Iris J. Salsman, a homeowner at the Maryland Walk condo association in Clayton, Mo., spends about four hours creating the content for each quarterly newsletter. She includes information about new amenities and services, meeting notices and other reminders, profiles and photos of new management staff, features on board and committee members, information on coming events, and recaps and photos of past events. The newsletter also includes a lighthearted quiz”how many dogs live in Maryland Walk?”with a free car wash to the winner.

In addition to association-specific materials, you can also land free content. œIf there™s a legal issue affecting your community, request to reprint an informative article from a reputable source, suggests McPherson. œWe also check with the police department, local nonprofits, and waste-removal services because they™ll often contribute for free. Don™t forget contact information for services your neighbors often use, such as animal control, your management company, utilities, drug tips lines, or the local cooperative extension service.

Finally, be careful the newsletter isn™t perceived solely as an association mouthpiece. œPublish letters to the editor to allow people to offer dissenting opinions, advises McPherson. œDon™t edit the letters, but reserve the right to reject them if they™re inappropriate or could involve the association in legal trouble. By allowing both sides of an argument to be aired, you can diffuse potentially tense situations.